Monday, June 2, 2014

A to Z of Denim Glossary - Part 1 A to B

13mwz
13MWZ is the style number of the very first Cowboy Cut” jean, designed more than 50 years ago with the help of celebrity cowboy tailor Rodeo Ben. The “MWZ” originally stood for “Men’s With Zipper”.


5 Beltloops
This is how many beltloops a typical pair of jeans has. Two beltloops are positioned in the front before the front pockets. Two loops are at each side and one in the center back of the jeans. The leather label is positioned between the right side and center back loops.

 

Abrasion
Wet processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion. Pumice stones are most frequently used. (see stone washing).

Acetate/Triacetate
The oldest man-made fibre and the first one made using tree pulp. Fabrics were made from acetate during World War 1 and used in airplane wings. Acetate has fair absorbency, high luster, (silk like) poor abrasion resistance, poor fastness to the sun and low strength which reduces 30% when wet.

Acid washing (also know as Marble Wash/Moon Wash/Snow Wash)
Practice in which pumice stones soaked in chlorine are tumbled with jeans in the dryer to etch white highlights into denim.

Patented by the the Italian Candida Laundry company in 1986, the finish gave indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The process was achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast.

Acrylic
Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and pills easily.

Azoic Dyes
Azoic dyes are insoluble pigments formed within the fibre by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base.

Bartak
A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans, usually front flies, pocket openings and crotch joins of inseams. Thankfully there is a bartak machine.

Basket Weave
A fabric weave where more than one filling threads pass over and under the same number of threads on alternate rows of the warp.

Bedford Cord
A fabric weave with ribs down the length of the fabric. The ribs can be any width. Looks like an uncut unbrushed corduroy without a velvet feeling.

Big E’s
To collectors, Levi’s 501s made before 1971, which have a capital E in the word Levi’s on the red pocket tab.

Bleach
Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade. Liquid bleach is usually an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain chloride of lime (calcium hypochlorite). Because chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial hypochlorite bleaches should never be used on these fibres.

Bleaching
An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from yarn or fabric. Also a process for laundries to make denim jeans fade.

Broken Twill
A denim fabric weave first used by Wrangler in 1964 in their jeans style 13MWZ.   The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design. Used prominently in the 1980′s by designer jeans brands like Sasson, Jordache and Calvin Klein with their dark prewash jeans and of course originally made famous by Wrangler.

Bull Denim
A 3×1 twill weave piece dyed fabric, made from coarse yarns. Weights can vary from 9 ozs/sq yard up to the standard 14 ozs/sq yard. It’s basically a denim without indigo!

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