Viscose and Acetate, derived from cellulose were almost all the man-made fibres in existence before World War II. During the 1930s, after intensive fibre research, several new synthetic fibres were produced experimentally which led to the production of nylon (Dupont’s invention), the first commercially successful synthetic-textile fibre.
Since that time, synthetic-fibre production has created polyesters, acrylics, polyolefins, and others.
Men’s Jeans
Men’s jeans are created to encompass a good fit anatomically. The crotches on men’s jeans are lazier, adding more depth and room where needed.
Mercerization
An industrial process used on yarn or fabrics to increase lustre as well as dye affinity.
It can also be used (on fabrics destined for the jeanswear industry) for keeping dye on the surface of the yarns or fabrics so that dyes do not fully penetrate the fibre.
Natural Dyes
Up to to the middle of the 19th century there were only natural dyes and most of these these were vegetable origin. Natural indigo being one of the more important dyes.
Natural dyes usually have no affinity for textile fibres until the fibres are treated with aluminum, iron, or tin compounds to receive the dye (mordanting). This is a problematic process and the dyes in any case have poor fastness to sun or abrasion.
Natural Fibres
Any hairlike raw material directly obtainable from an animal, vegetable, or mineral source that can be convertible, after spinning, into yarns and then into woven cloth. The usefulness of a fibre for commercial purposes is determined by it’s length, strength, pliability, elasticity, abrasion resistance, absorbency, and various surface properties
The earliest indication of hemp is in South East Asia in 4500 BC, linen in Egypt in 3400 BC, and cotton fibre use is in India in 3000 BC.
Nylon (PA)
Nylon is a synthetic fibre invented by DuPont that was used originally for hosiery but is currently used in many applications. Nylon is naturally water repellent, easy to dye, and very strong. These features have helped nylon replace cotton in many industrial uses like bags and flags and is very popular for use in the outerwear apparel industry. Nylon has a poor absorbency.
O.F., or A.F.
For Other Fibres (Altre Fibre), can be found on the Composition label of fabrics containing recycled materials. Many of the fabrics produced in the Italian area of Prato are made using yarns spun from blends of reclaimed wool (and, of course, other fibres!).
Open End denim
The denim most people are familiar with is “Open End Denim”. The term Open End Denim describes the yarn that is used to weave the denim. About 17 years ago, a process was developed that was more economical and produced a more consistent yarn thickness. For the jean purist, this denim is considered too refined and does not posses the unique character or strength of the denim of the past.
Optical Brighteners or Optical Whiteners
Chemicals that make fabrics appear to reflect more light than they really do, to make them brighter (they convert ultraviolet light to visible light in the blue region). They are sometimes used in the manufacture of fabrics and are often included in the formula of many detergents sold for home use.
Cotton grown where toxic chemicals have been eliminated in all growing process steps. Living soil (defined as being free of toxic chemicals for three years) is the basis of an organic farm and organic farmers have proven when plants are healthy they are able to resist insects, weeds and disease.
A one piece garment style usually made from denim or canvas. It is a pant with a bib top and suspenders over shoulders and back. Originally a work wear product.
Overdye
Fabric dye process on denim fabrics. Most frequently used on indigo or black denim fabric which is overdyed black.
Oxford
Originally made in Oxford, England, it is a plain weave fabric where 2 or more filling yarns pass over and under 1 or more parallel warp yarns. It is possible to have 2×1, 2×2, 3×2, 4×4, or 8×8.
Used in dress shirtings where the warp is a color and the filling is natural. Also very popular in nylon for outerwear jackets.
Oxidation
Where oxygen and another substance chemically join. Occurs when indigo yarn comes out of the indigo bath between dips, and is critical for the the dyestuff to penetrate the fibre.
Padazoic
A little known dyestuff that was used in the late 1960′s and early 1970′s instead of indigo when there was insufficient indigo production throughout the world to support the demand.
Pigment Dyes
Dyes without affinity for fibre and are therefore held to fabric with resins. They are available in almost any color and have been used extensively in the jeans wear industry by fabric dyers who want to create fabrics that fade.
Pima Cotton
Cotton grown in Peru and America where the fibre length is long (1 3/8″-1 5/8″) and luxurious. A beautiful quality of cotton. The best available after Sea Island and Egyptian cotton fibre.
Plain Weave
The simplest and most common fabric weave where the filling yarn passes over and under each warp yarn in alternating rows.
Ply
All yarns are single ply unless twisted with another yarn. Terms used are: 2 ply if two yarns are twisted together and 3 ply if three are twisted. Plied yarns are used to make yarns stronger. In the jeans-wear industry it has become important to ply yarns in piece dyed fabrics that are intended to endure a long stone wash cycle.
Points / Demerit Points
Visual fabric inspections require a numerical assessment to be made to areas of the fabric where there are defects.
Polyamide (PA)
See Nylon.
Polyester (PES)
Polyester is made of chemicals derived from coal, air, water and oil.
Polyester is a strong fibre with a good dye affinity, a high luster and good resiliency. In the 1960′s polyester and cotton were blended and had mass market appeal due to the blending of both fibres’ strengths. Polyester’s weak characteristics are that it pills, and is non-absorbent.
Poplin
Name of a light weight tightly (more warp threads than filling) woven plain weave fabric where a coarser yarn is used in the filling than the warp, leaving a slight rib effect across the width of the goods.
US customs defines this fabric as “not of a square construction, whether napped or not, weighing less than 200 gms per square metre, containing 33 or less warp ends and filling picks per square centimetre”.
Pre-shrunk
“Pre-shrunk” means the denim has been pretreated to ensure that the garment will shrink less than 3% in washing. And that’s just a technical way of saying that washing your jeans should not affect the fit of the garment.
Pumice Stones
A volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. Pumice is popular because of its strength and light weight.
Quality Control
This term unfortunately can mean everything and nothing! It is normally used to imply inspection of products throughout the manufacturing process to ensure that the finished products meet the standards.
Ramie
The perennial stalk producing ramie plant has been cultivated in eastern Asia for fibre since prehistoric times. Growing 3-8 feet high, with heart shaped leaves, the plant’s fibres was used in fabric in ancient Egypt and was known in Europe during the Middle Ages. Ramie fibre did not achieve importance in the West until the 1930s.
Because of its desirable properties, including strength and durability, ramie has frequently been promoted as a textile fibre of great potential.
Ramie fibre is pure white in colour, lustrous, moisture absorbent, and readily dyed. The fibre is stronger than flax, cotton, or wool. Fabric made from ramie fibre is easily laundered, increasing in strength when wet, and does not shrink or lose its shape. It dries quickly and becomes smoother and more lustrous with repeated washings. Ramie is resistant to mildew and other types of micro-organism attack and good fastness to sun.
Because ramie is brittle, spinning it is difficult and weaving is complicated because ramie has a very hairy yarn surface.
Range-dyeing
Process in which yarn is run through indigo dye, then the color is fixed by exposing it to air. This allows the fabric to fade gradually.
Rayon
The synthetic fibre known as rayon is produced from regenerated cellulose (wood pulp) that has been chemically treated. Fabrics made of rayon are strong, highly absorbent, and soft; they drape well and can be dyed in brilliant, long-lasting colors. Rayon fibres are also used as reinforcing cords in motor tires, and their excellent absorbency makes them useful in medical and surgical materials. Rayon can be used alone or blended with other synthetic or natural fibers. Since the mid-1980s rayon use has grown dramatically as new formulations and blends have added more strength and softness to the fabric and have made it more absorbent, more washable, and less vulnerable to wrinkling.
Redcast
Organic blue, which is also known as happy days, has a slightly reddish tint. It was used by Levis to make the big E. The dyeing formula originally included some real corn syrup.
To collectors, jeans made before 1986, which have a red line running up the inseam.
Right Hand Twill
A fabric weave where the twill line runs from the top right hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom left. Usually in piece dyed fabrics right hand twills use two plied yarns in the warp. In the jeans industry Levi’s has always used Right Hand twills for their basic denims in their 501 model as well as their other basic models.
Ring Spun denim
This is the denim of the past. Ring Spun Denim is more rugged and is a less refined yarn. This yarn adds character to the denim because of the “slubs” running throughout the yarn. Slubs are tiny knots of cotton, and these slubs are found randomly throughout the yarn. All in all, ring spun is stronger and will last longer than normal Open End Denim.
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