Canvas
The simplest weave in textiles is a plain weave (1×1) where the filling yarn is passed over and under individual warp yarns. Using thick yarns, makes the fabric into a canvas.
Carding
The industrial yarn preparation process where raw cotton is separated, opened, cleaned and made into sliver.
Catalyst
A substance or agent that initiates a chemical reaction and makes possible for it to proceed.
Cellulose
The basic structural component of plant cell walls, cellulose comprises about 33 percent of all vegetable matter (90 percent of cotton and 50 percent of wood are cellulose) and is the most abundant of all naturally occurring organic compounds. Cellulose is processed to produce papers, fibres and is chemically modified to yield substances used in the manufacture of such items as rayon, plastics, and photographic films. Other cellulose derivatives are used as adhesives, explosives, thickening agents for foods, and in moisture-proof coatings.
Cellulosic Fibres
The chemical processing of short cotton fibres, linters, or wood pulp produce fibres like rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Other materials modified to produce fibres include protein, glass, metals, and rubber.
A plain weave fabric, with a single but different warp and weft color. In jeanswear, fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp color and natural (unbleached) weft.
The name came from both the trouser style worn by British Colonial troops in the 1800′s and the fabric used for the fabric. Today a cotton trouser is considered as a chino and the fabric would be considered as a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill.
Ciba-Geigy AG
Swiss multinational holding company created in 1970 in the merger of two concerns headquartered in Basel-Ciba AG and J.R. Geigy SA. The group consists of affiliates in some 50 countries and is engaged in the manufacture and marketing of dyes and chemicals; pharmaceuticals; plastics and additives; agricultural chemicals and fertilisers; photographic products; and household and garden products and toiletries.
Combing
An industrial yarn preparation process where fibres are combed to make them parallel in the sliver and short fibres are taken out.
Combed Yarn
A yarn whose sliver is combed – uses finer fibre than carded yarns and is more regular and expensive than carded yarn.
Conventional Cotton
Most popular (commercial) system for growing cotton by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilisers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides (chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants) the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmers, people who live near farms, as well as our environment.
The French originally called this this lush velvety fabric “Cord Du Roi”, cord of the King. The fabric is ribbed throughout the length and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface appears. Fourteen wale corduroy was one of the most important jeans fabrics in the 1960′s and 1970′s when jeans became universal. The fabric has a rounded plush velvet type cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cutting the pile. The fabric is woven by having one warp and two fillings. After weaving the back of the fabric is coated with glue, and the ribs are cut open down the centre. Once the glue is removed from the face, the fabric is finished by a series of brushings, waxings, and singeings.
When the pile is made from extra fillings rather than from extra warp yarn, the fabric is called velveteen.
Core Spun Yarn
A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn.
Cotton
Cotton, genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous bolls that are manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers, which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large, divided leaves. Length of fibre ranges from 3/8″ to 2″ (Egyptian, Sea Island). The longer the fibre, the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric. Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, and increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, the United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt.
Cotton Gin
On March 14, 1794, Eli Whitney patented his invention of a machine that could take seeds out of cotton. Although one of the most important hardware developments in the history of cotton textiles, Whitney’s gin invention was pirated and this put Whitney’s company out of business by 1796.
Cotton inspection
The grading, and classing of cotton to facilitate interstate and foreign commerce in cotton by providing official quality determinations.
Cowboy Cut
Cowboy Cut is a style of jean made only by Wrangler. Designed and wear-tested by real cowboys, the jean features high-back pockets (so cowboys don’t sit on their wallets), a tapered leg from knee to bottom to fit over boots, a wide space between front belt loops to accommodate a western belt and trophy buckle, smooth round rivets and extra room in the seat and thigh to make riding easier and more comfortable. Cowboy Cut is available in original, slim, classic and relaxed cuts for women and in original, slim and relaxed for men. Each style is cut to fit over boots. To find the fit that fits you, there’s no substitute for grabbing a few pairs and heading to the dressing room.
Yarn Count
The size of yarn is defined by its weight and fineness. You may have: Tex=No. of grams per kilometre; English Cotton Count= No. of 840 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (YSW)=No. of 256 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (Dewsbury)=No. of yard lengths per oz; Worsted Count= No. of 560 yd lengths per lb; Metric Count= No. of kilometres per kilogram; Linen Count (Wet Spun)= No. of 300 yd. length per lb; Jute Count= No. of lb per 14.400 yd; Denier= No. of grams per 9.000 metres; Decitex= No. of grams per 10.000 metres.
Courtaulds
One of the oldest and largest textile groups in the world. Divided today in 2 groups, Courtaulds Textiles with fabric production, garment manufacturing and retail, and Courtaulds Plc, a chemical company which produces fibres and has recently developed and marketed Tencel.
Crock
A term used to describe how dye rubs off fabric on skin or other fabric.
Dead stock To collectors, a pair of jeans with the original price tag that has never been worn or sold. These rare jeans are extremely valuable.
Defoliant
A chemical dust or spray applied to plants to cause their leaves to drop off prematurely. Defoliants are frequently applied to cotton in order to facilitate harvesting. Defoliants were employed in warfare to eliminate enemy food crops and potential areas of concealment of enemy forces by South Vietnamese and U.S. forces in the Vietnam War; the most controversial substance being the chemical compound known as Agent Orange.
Denim
Fabric made with a blue cotton warp and white cotton filling. Denim was originally called serge de Nimes because it was produced in Nimes, France.
Hard-wearing material. Originally it was used as working clothes like overalls and jeans. Nowadays it’s used for fashionable clothes. Often blue, with artificial caused patina like groping and holes for a worn look, maybe covered by patches for decoration.
Dips
Dips is used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times.
Dobby
A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms.
Double Needle
A seam commonly used in Jeanswear garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time.
Drawing/Drafting
The industrial process where slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing.
Drill
Usually a left hand 2×1 weave, twill fabric.
Duck
Once known as a fabric lighter than canvas, today a duck is considered to be a synonym for canvas or a plain weave cotton made from medium to coarse yarns.
Comes from the Hindi word used to describe the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri many years ago.
DuPont
They brought you Nylon, Teflon, Lycra….
Dyeing
The industrial process to add color to fibre, yarn, fabric, or garments.
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