Q:What’s the difference between Single Ring Spun denim and Double Ring Spun denim?
A: A denim’s weave has yarn running both lengthwise and widthwise. Most Ring Spun Denims are woven with Ring Spun yarns running lengthwise and Open End yarns running widthwise, this is called a Single Ring Spun Denim. A Double Ring Spun Denim is made with pure ring spun yarns woven into the length and the width of the weave. Our Cheyenne fabric boasts Double Ring Spun qualities.
Rivets
Metal tabs placed at stress points in pre-1960s jeans, introduced by Nevada tailor Jacob Davis, who borrowed the technique from horse blankets.
Rope Dyed
Considered as the best possible method to dye indigo yarns.
Sanding/Emerising
A fabric finishing process where fabrics are sanded (real sandpaper) to make the surface soft without hair. Can be performed before or after dyeing.
Sanforize
A Cluett Peabody and Company trademark for the preshrinking fabric process that limits residual fabric shrinkage to under 1%. Developed in the late 1920′s by the Sanforize Co., the process was used on the garments in Wrangler’s first jeans line in 1947.
Sandblast
A laundry process where jeans before washing are literally shot with guns of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they have been worn. While originally done only by hand, this processing has recently become automated. Chemicals are also now used in many laundries replacing sand.
Satin and Sateen
A fabric weave where one yarn floats over a series of yarns before it interlaces once. When the warp floats over a series of picks (at least four) the fabric is called satin. When the filling floats over a series of ends the fabric is called sateen. Satin weaves make fabric surfaces shiny and very smooth.
Scouring
An industrial process where dirt or starch (oil, grease, sizing) is taken off fabrics.
Screening
A laundry process where jeans are checked for quality, repaired, price tagged and packed.
Sea Island Cotton
Along with Egyptian cotton fibre, the finest grade of cotton available. The fibre can be spun into yarn two times finer than Pima, the next best cotton grade.
Selvage Denim
Old 28/29 inch shuttle looms produced denim where selvages were closed. Vintage Levi’s jeans had a single red stripe along both selvages, Lee’s had a blue/green along one, Wrangler’s was yellow. When vintage shopping for jeanswear check jackets and jeans for selvages because they are a great clue to the real thing!
Shade Batching
The process of selecting batches of fabrics into homogeneous shade lots to obtain consistent color continuity in garment making.
Shade Blanket
Where fabric is cut from each roll of fabric, sewn together, with roll numbers on the back of each pad to allow manufacturers to wash and identify all shade colors of each roll. This is an important tool in cutting apparel made from denim to ensure you cut garments from the same shade group.
The weft insertion device that propels the filling yarn across (over and under) the warp yarns. Shuttles used to be (shuttle looms) wooden with a metal tip.
Silicone
Silicones are silicon-containing polymer materials that have found wide use in industry because of their great stability. They are available as fluids, sealant-adhesives, mouldable resins, and rubbers. When the first silicone oil was made in the 1870s, its insensitivity to both high and low temperatures was noted, but the first silicone rubbers were not invented until 1943. In the 1950s silicones were developed commercially for the aerospace and electronics industries but rapidly found applications in many fields, especially construction. Some fluid silicons are used in garment finishing, to give a smooth handle to fabrics.
Silk
Silk is the filament secreted by the silkworm when spinning its cocoon, and the name for the threads, yarns, and fabrics made from the filament. Most commercial silk is produced by the cultivated silkworm, Bombyx mori, which feeds exclusively on the leaves of certain varieties of mulberry trees and spins a thin, white filament. Several species of wild silkworm feed on oak, cherry, and mulberry leaves and produce a brown, hairy filament that is three times the thickness of the cultivated filament and is called tussah silk.
Singeing
A phase of finishing when the fabric surface hair is burnt (or singed) using a controlled flame, to give a clean appearance to the fabrics.
Sizing
Starch, gelatin, glue, wax that is added to fabrics in the finishing state to improve touch or weight and to help fabric laying in the cutting phase. Denim fabrics for example have almost 1 oz of sizing.
Sizing is also applied to reinforce warp yarns during weaving. Most common starches used are corn in the United States, rice in Asia, and potato in Europe, or PVOH and other chemical substances. Look out for fabrics containing P.C.P., a highly toxic chemical still used sometimes as sizing agent!
Slim Leg Fit
This jean leg has no ease added to your thigh and knee measurements. The leg of your jeans will “hug” your leg from the thigh to the knee.
Skewing
Twill fabrics have to be ensured not to skew or not unroll.
Slasher Dyed
One of the three methods to dye indigo yarn.
Sliver
Continuous strands of fibre untwisted that come from carding.
Slub Yarn
A yarn that is spun purposely to look irregular in shape (length and diameter). Usually slub yarns are very regular in repeat and size.
Spandex (PU)
Generic name for man-made fibres derived from a resin called segmented polyurethane. It has good stretch and recovery properties.
Spinning
Spinning is the process by which cotton, wool, flax, and other short fibres are twisted together to produce a yarn or thread suitable for weaving into cloth, winding into rope or cable, or used in sewing. (Long, continuous fibres, such as silk, are not spun. To achieve strength and the appropriate thickness, they are thrown, or twisted, together.)
Staple
Short lengths of fibres, normally measured in inches or fraction of inches, like those naturally found in cotton and wool. Silk, on the other hand, is the only natural fibre that does not come in staple lengths but instead in filament lengths.
Stonewashing
Process in which pumice stones are added to wash cycle to abrade denim and loosen color.
S-Twist Yarn
A left handed twisted yarn. See also Z-Twist.
Sulphur
A type of dyestuff used frequently on blacks, and neutrals (khaki’s) while economical, has only moderate fastness to washing and light.
Synthetic dyes
In 1856 William Henry Perkin, an English chemist, discovered the synthetic dye mauveine. From this day forward, synthetic dyestuffs began to supplant natural dyes. The synthetic-dye manufacturing industry was founded by Perkin in 1857, when he set up facilities near London for the commercial production of mauveine and, later, of other synthetic dyes. Other dye-making factories followed both in the U.K. and continental Europe, and new dyes began to appear on the market.
Synthetic Fibres
Chemicals combined into large molecules called polymers, produce fibres like nylon, polyester, spandex, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, saran, spandex, and vinyon.
Tencel
A cellulose fibre invented by Courtaulds using a non-chemical solvent. It was originally developed to produce viscose fibres without polluting the environment. The end result was a new fibre which was not only environmentally friendly (more than any other fibre) but also featured very high strength and a wonderful touch.
Textile Industry
Derived from the Latin “texere” (to weave), and originally used to describe woven fabrics, textiles has become a general term for fibres, yarns, and other materials that can be made into fabrics as well as for woven or knitted fabrics. Threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles.
Textile Finishing
The non coloring process to make woven or knitted fabric more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, sizing applied after dyeing affecting touch treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Greige fabric is generally dirty, harsh, unattractive and requires considerable skill and imagination for conversion into a desirable product. Italian textile mills are famous as being the best finishers in the world.
Trevira
A branded type of Polyester, produced by Hoechst Fibres Inc. It offers better Pilling performance than regular Polyester.
Twill
The term twill designates both a textile weave characterised by diagonal structural designs and the cloth made from that weave. The weave may be varied to produce broken or intertwining effects. Twill fabrics are usually firm and are used especially in suits and in sport and work clothes. Twill-weave fabrics are also used for linings, pockets, and mattress ticking. Serge, gabardine, and cheviot are major types of twill.
Uneven Yarn
Ring Spun yarn is by nature never perfectly regular; these irregularities can be used to give character to the yarn and subsequently to the fabric. It can be either light to give a natural appearance, or pronounced, to give an “antique” effect.
Even Open End yarns can sometimes reproduce the antique effect, although they are very regular and cannot give a natural effect.
Velour
A knit or woven fabric with a thick, short, cut pile.
Velvet
A fabric with a short, closely woven pile, originally made of silk, it is today made of rayon, nylon, acrylic cut pile fabrics.
Virgin Fibres
Fibres never made into fabric before, primarily used for wool fibres (virgin wool), to differentiate between these and reclaimed, reprocessed, and reused fibres.
Wales
They are a series of ribs or ridges usually running lengthwise on woven fabrics. They describe the pile ribs found on corduroy fabrics.
Warp
The lengthwise, vertical yarns carried over and under the weft. Warp yarns generally have more twist than weft yarns because they are subjected to more strain in the weaving process and therefore require more strength.
Weft (also called filling)
The lengthwise, selvage to selvage horizontal, yarns carried over and under the warp. Filling yarns generally have less twist than warp yarns because they are subjected to less strain in the weaving process and therefore require less strength.
In pile-fabric constructions, such as velvet or velveteen, extra sets of warps are used to form the pile. A single filling yarn is known as a pick.
Width
One of the most controversial issues in fabric sale; it can be “selvage to selvage”, where the width value is inclusive of selvages, or “usable”, where the value indicates the fabric effectively cuttable.
Women’s Jeans
Women’s jeans are created to flatter her figure. The thighs are cut closer to the body. And the depth of the back yoke gives a nice fit from the waist to the thighs.
This name will celebrate its 67th anniversary next year; the jeans were manufactured by a Company called Blue Bell ( Blue Bell Overall established in North Carolina in 1904, changed its name to Blue Bell Company in 1925. Blue Bell became eventually the biggest work wear company in the world!). After the war, in 1947, Blue Bell started manufacturing jeans for cowboys. The first model was No. 11MW.
X-Dyed Fabrics
Cross dyed fabrics present a two color weave, obtained using different color yarns in the warp and in the weft.
The original denim fabric used by Levi’s for the production of their 501 jeans. According to the legend, the name 501 itself derived from the lot number of this fabric.
Yarn
A generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic staple fibres, or filaments, used in weaving, knitting to form textile fabrics.
Yarn Dyed
Or Color Wovens, are fabrics produced with yarns already dyed prior to the weaving process.
Z-Twist
A right-handed twisted yarn, as opposed to S-Twist.
*This glossary was originally posted on http://home1.inet.tele.dk/bcm/glossary.htm but has since then been taken down. It can be found on other various pages online.
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